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New clutch problems...burning smell?
Please login or register. Did you miss your activation email? Home Help Search Login Register. Spork Walrus Stache Posts: I have replaced 2 clutches in my life, so my experience would be "less than a certified technician". The first one was probably 30 years ago, so memories are fading. I have an old junker pickup truck that is worth about the price of the gas in the tank. I replaced the clutch a couple of months ago and I sometimes get that distinctive "burning clutch smell" after driving.
I patched it with high heat JB weld and I know this is not a permanent fix. Refer to value of truck. It is possible this is the source of the smell, but It smells about 3 minutes after I stop driving. I've googled around and seen both "if you smell burning clutch, you have a problem and it's going to disintegrate very quickly Your hair is on fire and we're all going to die" and "A burning smell is perfectly normal in the first few hundred miles of break in.
A "burning clutch" smell a few minutes after parking would lead me to inspect the brakes. You may have a sticking caliper or shoe s that get the disc or drum very hot, which then cooks the pads or shoes when the vehicle stops and the brake is set. Or it could just be the new friction disc off-gassing. A check with an IR themometer check the discs or drums will help. Quote from: Greg on November 20,AM.
At least I've heard of pressure plate and throwout bearings that weren't quite dimensionally accurate doing this. You didn't say what the truck is but I've found this type of problem, the "parts books" being wrong, on my older, "orphan" stuff like IH trucks. If it's a hydraulic clutch actuation I always replace those parts but they generally wouldn't cause partial engagement. Mechanical clutch. I didn't replace the forks and didn't even think about that. I don't feel any slip post install Since this is an occasional driver I pushed it pretty much to the limit on how long I let it go before replacing.
There is also the chance of mechanic error on my part It's the things I don't know that will bite me though. Check carefully to see what's hot. Check the transmission casing after you've eliminated the brakes hub will be hot if they're the culprit.
I've had many a stuck caliper requiring a rebuild or even replacement that has happened unexpectedly in my life, never a clutch issue Since it's AC Delco I'd think it's a pretty safe bet that it's probably correct. I didn't talk about mechanical linkages since well no one I know except myself has anything with one. But is it possible you tweaked it when you took everything apart?Has it ever happened to you when you are trying to creep up an uphill road and the burning clutch smell hits your nose?
Signs & Symptoms of a Burnt Clutch
Well, it can happen to a lot of drivers at a lot of other occasions too. Different smells in the ca r mean different things. But, all of them certainly spell trouble. Whenever you detect a burning smell coming from the clutch, it simply means that you have burnt it.
When the smell hits your nose, one thing is for sure that the clutch plate is slipping more than it should. The burning of the surface of the plate leads to the glazing of the clutch surface.
This, in turn, will result in slippage of the clutch plate because the burning is preventing it from engaging fully. Here are 3 reasons why you have ended up burning the clutch plate. Normal wear and tear of the clutch disk over the years. Reckless, poor driving technique which ultimately leads to 1 and 2 sooner than expected.
It is important to notice the time of occurrence of this smell in order to be able to diagnose it. If you are creeping uphill, especially in heavy traffic, the smell is a result of overheated friction material. It happens because you are using the clutch constantly as you try to move up. And if you do this every few meters, friction palates are likely to overheat.
This is exactly what you smell. While you are crawling uphill slowly, make sure that you do keep some space between the vehicle in front of you and your car. Then go, stay in at first and then use that distance as margin to start and stop every time.
If you catch burning clutch smell during normal driving, then it is a sign of a slipping plate.Guy burns his clutch
Chances are that the clutch is totally worn out and is slipping due to this reason. The only way to fix that is by replacing the plate. Whenever you drive manual transmission, remember that you foot should not constantly touch the clutch pedal. You should place your foot on it only when you want to use it. When you do not take your foot off of it, some amount of force always stays applied.
If you believe in showing off your wheelspins, you surely smell burnt clutch very often. And if, you gave been doing it very often, odds are that the smell always stays there even when you drive normally.
The smell primarily indicates that you are not driving well; that you probably rev up high when starting from a halt. Eventually, it wears out the clutch. Tsukasa Azuma is an awesome car blogger of Car From Japan. He owns a car repair shop at downtown Osaka, and he put all that experience to good use in his sharing posts. What is the Function of a Crankshaft Position Sensor? Login with Google. Likes Followers Followers.
Import used cars directly from Japan. Maintenance Tips. By Tsukasa Azuma Last updated Feb 3, 4. Burning clutch smell while crawling uphills.
Burning clutch smell while showing off your wheelspins.I believe this is the belt burning. Even with the rear jacked up, it has lots of trouble rotating. The motor also sticks around rpm sometimes carb issue, separatebut it should be able to at LEAST move.
When rotating the track by hand, I heard a slight squeak. Should I rinse it with water? Grease the heck out of it? Need tips, how to check which component of my clutch system is acting up? I reved it to at one point with no avail. The chaincase is "new" as of last year Would greasing it help at all? I thought grease was for external components and wouldn't aid in turning?
I still need to do this The track does not turn by hand, neither does the rotor brakeor the secondary. Parking brake on? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.
I don't believe so.
Signs & Symptoms of a Burnt Clutch
The parking brake is applied by squeezing the brake, and then pulling the little metal holder? Pressing the brake handle dis-engages the park brake correct? If so, the park brake is OFF. Junk bearings on jackshaft. Wrong track somehow. Something messed up with the chaincase gears.There could be several reasons behind burning smell from car that we might not know yet.
In fact, this is the kind of smell produced by a few technical problems in the car. These stinky odors often create an unpleasant sensation for the driver, and above all this is a dangerous warning directly to the person who control the car. In some situations, you can fix this by your own. In others, you must stop the car immediately and bring it to the nearest garage while the burning smell coming from car happens. But how can you distinguish each case?
These abnormal smells are often uncomfortable, and above all, they can cause catastrophic hazards. Do you often smell the burning rubber under your hood? This is a remarkable sign that your car engine is running for a long time. When the burning rubber smell appears in your car, it also means that you need to find out more about future problems with your car. These causes below will show the specific reason why your car have burning rubber smell.
It happens whenever you shift gears and the smell is usually similar to that of a burning newspaper or the burning rubber smell from car. So, you can recognize this quite easy. It smells rubbery because the surface of the clutch is a type of paper mesh.
Solution: You need to replace a worn clutch. Consequently, whenever shifting gears, it would be smooth. This usually happens when one of the accessories of the drive such as generator, air pump, water pump or AC compressor is locked. When this happens, the belt will rotate on a frozen pulley and cause a burning sensation like a burning rubber smell.
This phenomenon will cause your car to operate with a few strange sounds. Solution: In this case, you need to replace the faulty belt and check the remaining belts.Remember Me? Advanced Search. Got my clutch replaced, now my car smells of burning rubber! Results 1 to 7 of 7. Thread: help! The clutch feels great! And has no noise at all. However after I got home and parked the car, it started ommitting this aweful smell of burning rubber.
It smelt very similar to when my clutch was slipping -it wasnt a burning oil smell it was a more dusy dark smell like burning rubber.
I am worried that the mechanic may have not correctly put my car back together. I have driven the car on 3 small trips after getting the car back and each time, when I get out of the car it smells of this aweful burning rubber. I got someone else to drive my car to make sure it wasnt because I was riding the clutch - this guy has only ever driven manuals and has a perfect driving style with little use of clutch during changes.
And it still smelt aweful afterwards. Any ideas what it could be? I am going to call the mechanic today but I was hoping you guys could tell me what you think too. As they will probably just say - thats normal clutch wearing in, or thats probably just some oil burning off.
But surly it wouldnt be still smelling after 3 x km drives? The clutch need to be adjusted, or it's just break in Period.
Call back the mechanic and ask him about the issue. Last edited by hmetro24; at PM. OP did you experience any slipping or "hobbling" thru the clutch when driving? Most likely when a hill start or in reverse for example. The burning smell is the clutch disc fibres them selves - why we have to work out. It shouldnt be making any smell at all. The following could be it 1. The euro is a heavyish carso it may not like hill starts or stop-start traffic on a new clutch.
Personally i would call your mech - tell him about it - and continue on to drive and not overly load the clutch. Just cruise about and be easy. Thanks guys for all your suggestions, much appreciated! The mechanic is going to check it out for me tomorrow. Originally Posted by bennjamin. The uneven surface created burn marks in the flywheel surface! Please go back to your mechanic and explain the situation - there should be any "smell". Terms and Conditions Ozhonda.
It only takes a minute to sign up. Recently on a ramp in a parking structure I messed up when trying to accelerate again from a standstill by not letting the clutch out far enough and bringing the engine to way too high rpms may have been around 4k.
Afterwards a burning-kind of smell lingered for a minute or so, which I presume came from the clutch which got hotter than it should normally be. Now, how harmful was this to the clutch? It happened once and I didn't notice any difference in behaviour afterwards.
The smell also vanished and didn't persist. If it was just once, I wouldn't be overly worried You took a bit of life off your clutch, and I'd keep an eye out for issues in the coming weeks or months with the clutch just to be on the safe side.
This happens all the time at autocross events, in extreme cases the clutch will get "glazed" and slip a lot until the burnt material is worn off. Since you aren't having any trouble, you'll be fine. It is technically harmful, but if it only happened one time, and you don't notice any difference now, you're fine. If it happens a lot you can damage your clutch or other parts but once in a while is fine if not exactly desirable.
Think of your clutch like a brake pad, there is a kind of "pad". What you smelled was a tiny amount of of that pad burning off, like an eraser. Just like an eraser, when you erase a lot, you can smell it, but there is usually plenty of eraser left.
That doesn't mean you want to go around do this all the time, but it's okay if it happens once in a while. In fact, just like the brakes in your car, you loose a tiny fraction of the "pad" every time you engage and disengage the clutch.
And just like the brakes, "heavy use" uses up more, but not all, of that "pad". The part you smelled burning was the "friction surface" in the video. Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top.
Home Questions Tags Users Unanswered. Clutch smell after botched attempt at accelerating on a ramp Ask Question.Fl c PRr o cdrXV m zej. Here are some techniques for remote teams to use and increase productivity while working from home:.
Find a substitute for face to face communication and run daily check-ins. It means you have a heavy foot and you do not know how to drive a car with manual gears very well. When you are driving a non automatic, your left foot should always be away from the clutch pedal. You only use the pedal when you need to use the clutch. Straight away you should move your foot to the left of the pedal and keep it there until needed again.
When you keep your foot on the pedal, even the weight of the foot on it may be enough to keep some kind of force on the pedal. When you do this, the clutch disc is not completely pressed. This generates heat because it starts skipping even if This generates heat because it starts skipping even if you do not notice it. This will eventually burn out the clutch disc pads and thus the smell.
The clutch disc is slipping between the flywheel and the pressure plate. Most often you can just let it idle or drive it in high gear is even better to cool it back down. Here is another clutch issue, took my lifted F 4x4 V8 beast to play in the water and mud over the weekend.
Went out at 4am to drive the 49 miles one way to work, and when I went to start it up it tried jerking backwards. I had it in reverse under carport and clutch to the floor, checked everything and tried again, by now I was fully awake, and rea I had it in reverse under carport and clutch to the floor, checked everything and tried again, by now I was fully awake, and realized the clutch was a little more than wet.
So this time I put it in reverse again, no foot on brake, no parking brake, and started it essentially in gear. Got backed out, shut it off, put it in first and drove towards work, by the first stoplight when I tried to stop with the clutch pedal in, and using the brake to put huge torque on the disc, there was a huge pop, and continued to work.
Drove it a few more years before trading it with no issues. One spectrum of slipping and burning, to wet and swelling!